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Golden Ring
Золотое кольцо [zólotoje koljtsó]

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Fame story Jurij Pompeev: Golden ring
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Forex: 1 eur = 37,5 rub (100 rub = 2,67 eur, 1000 rub = 27 eur) Viimeisin (20110902) Word-muotoinen matkaohjelma


Kultainen kehä
Margi Moskovasta koilliseen on ryhmä vanhoja kaupunkeja, jotka muodostavat yhdessä niin sanotun kultaisen kehän. Nimitys on annettu, koska kaupungeilla on ollut merkittävä rooli Venäjän historiassa. Kaupungit on rakennettu 1000 – 1600 –luvuilla ja ne muodostavat Venäjän hallinnollisen, kirkollisen ja kaupankäynnin keskuksen ennen Moskovan kehittymistä valtakunnan pääkaupungiksi. Pieni matkaopas Kultaisen kehän kaupungeissa voi ihailla toinen toistaan kauniimpia kirkkoja ja luostareita. (Margi)
Exciting trip. Seldom have I been so excited in expecting a trip to come as alrady a whole year expecting this trip. And seldom with such a firm determination getting ready to go as this time. The reason is very simple: a deteriorating ability to move. All time in my mind, (already from the last autumn) the experiences of the previous trip. That time boat being the means of transportation only little walking could be expected. That was not true. The sightseeing doe not take place on board. Old cities are also visited like this time. The detemination has meant diligent nordic walking with poles and anxious observing of the state of health of the knee. Sometimes some pain has been felt, causing thoughts about cancelling the trip. But then again no pain, normal condition. Must be able to go, particularly because otherwise the whole trip could be cancelled, because the number of participants would be so small. Luckily the eager training brought results and I decided to go.

Old friends, Seppo's gang departingAdditional excitement is giving the fact that spouse does not participate, because she has a really exciting trip in front of her, too much for me, a trip to South Africa later in autumn. I tried to provoke other close people to go with me, but nobody was willing. On the other hand, no panic, because at least half of the gang is old friends and especially the organizer of the trip Virve. Seppo still several times assured that I would be taken care of. That also happened. Thanks a lot for help and patience. As a matter of fact in no phase of the trip did I feel myself a nuisance to others. A couple of longer walks I did not perform as I had planned already in advance. Quite sufficiently did I get to see also this way. It would be big pleasure to get pictures and comments of the places where I did not go. So I could join them here (Metro, Novodevich, Vladimir Cathedral...)

20110905ma
1752 Lähtee Helsingista Moskovaan Tolstoi-juna.
Train voyage. This means the third consecutive year with a trip by train to Moscow. In 1970's and 1980's I did it may be some ten times. Always the train is an experience of its own. From earlier trips I remember the one, when the wagon porter 'Ivan' was practically 100 percent handicapped in speaking, but had a sense of business. I bought from him a set of six genuine russian teaglasses with iron holders describing the revolution of working class. Ivan assured that he would get replacement in Moscow. Another time there was a very polite, complete Finnish speaking customs officer, who digged my valige and found books and publications not allowed to brought out of the country (for publication in the West I think).

Examining the menu Remembering the latest trips water is coming in the mouth. You get the first touch of the Russian kitchen. There is borsch, solyanka, blini and even julienne, a real mushroom julienne. You get the water-in-mnouth phenomenon by merely writing about them. So, to the restaurant wagon we go. But what an unforgivable blunder: no pictures of the food portions! I order fish solyanka, other members of the my small group order meat solyanka. But I am also served the meat version. I do not bother to change, because also this is new for me. A splendid choice! The interesting thing is also the service. It is taken care by 'Ivan', a gloweyed young man. He moves rapidly like a salamander and smiles friendly, but is somewhat unsubtle in effecting the order. I will return to Ivan at the end of this story, because he is surprising there, in the description of the trip back.


Pictures of train trip ( 18)
Steps 2020. o Comment train trip!
Kindle: Zolotoe_koltso-Pompeev-20110903 - Loc. 227-1462
An Introduction to Philosophy (George Stuart Fullerton) Loc. 1360-1462: 75-80=5

20110906ti
0825 Tolstoi-juna saapuu Moskovaan.
Margi Kierrellään Moskovan tärkeimillä kaduilla, bulevardeilla ja aukioilla. Ihaillaan niin historiallista kuin nykypäivän rakennustaidetta, muistomerkkeja ja nautitaan upeista näkymistä. Vaikuttava on uudelleen rakennettu Kristus Vapahtajan Katedraali Moskovajoen rannalla, yksi suurimmista ortodoksisista kirkoista maailmassa. Tutustutaan myös Novodevitšin Nunnaluostariin ja hautausmaahan. Luostarin perusti Iivana III vuonna 1524 Smolenskin Jumalan Äidin ikonin kunniaksi. Monet naiset kuningasperheistä tulivat nunniksi, jotkut väkipakolla ja jotkut oma-aloitteisesti. Luostarissa on myös kuuluisa hautausmaa, joka neuvostoaikana oli arvojärjestykseltään toinen Kremlin muurin jälkeen. Neuvostoliiton kaaduttua siitä tuli ensimmäinen, koska muuriin ei enää haudata. Hautausmaalle on haudattu paljon kuuluisia artisteja ja poliitikkoja. Luostari on ollut Unescon maailmanperintökohde vuodesta 2004.
Kahvitauko kiertoajelun aikana.
Russian BORSCH, "croquettes" (meat balls) in tomato sauce with mashed potatoes, cake, tea or coffee.
Kaupunkikierroksen jälkeen kuljetus hotelliin. Majoittuminen kahdeksi yöksi hotelliin Cosmos ****. (Margi)
Lounas hotellissa.

Kristus Vapahtajan katedraali (Moskova) o Saint_Basil's_Cathedral o Saint_Basil's_Cathedral (official eng)
РУССКАЯ ПРАВОСЛАВНАЯ ЦЕРКОВЬ o Novodevitshin Nunnaluostari o Novodevichy_Cemetery o Новодевичий монастырь
We arrive at the Leningrad railway station in Moscow at 0825. Although Leningrad does not exist any more, the name is present in many other connections. For instance the city of St Petersburg is situated in the Leningrad area (area being an administrative unit, something like a county in the old British practice). Also the former Finnish town of Vyborg belongs to the Leningrad area. This became clear to me quite recently in an official way, when I inquired at the Vyborg statistical office the birth attest of my wife and a friend of ours, who were born in the new female hospital of Vyborg in 1938 and 1939. They did not find, but advised me to turn to the County archive of Mikkeli in Finland. These documents are not found there either, but they advise to turn to the Vyborg archive.

Red Square 20100713 Important meeting. I have right from the beginning an important meeting. My friend, Lev Evdokimovitsh Balashov, professor of pracical philosophy is meeting us on the platform. His books and I have since 2005 translated and prepared for internet. Two years ago there was a similar meeting, when I rought to him the author's copies of my Finnish translation of his book Практическая философия (Practical philosophy). A year ago we met and it was the idea that we raise toasts in honour of the English translation of the same book, but it turned to drinking directly from the bottle (wife, Lev and I), because the necessary equipment was forgotten. Now the same book is in form of questions and answers or in dialog form in internet by the name BalaPedia in three languages.

Moscow marathon Lev Balashov joins us and we drive by coach to the Red Square, at the center of the city. On our way Lev boasts: "yesterday I ran 10 kilometres at the Moscow Marathon event, have you recently any feat to boast of". I did not find anything. I knew about his diligent jogging hobby, but still I remained with mouth open. He is in rather corpulent shape and of age 67. But as a matter of fact I also have something to boast at this connection, I mean the Moscow Marathon, which I ran in full length in 1982, but it was then. Now the foot does not any more rise into running steps at all.

Red Square We keep ogling the Red Square at some length of time. As a matter of fact I have not very much new things there to look at, having so many times visited Moscow. But the Red Square of Moscow is always worth seeing and photographing; it is, however, the center of Russia. Actually, we should have collected our whole group and taken pictures both with the mighty Kremlin and the beautiful Vassily Cathedral at the background. In the picture here both of them are present, but quite too far away and also our group seems to be in a way orphan, as if they were the only humans in the center of the great Mother Russia. Yes, center: we took, however, many pictures in a spot, which in Helsinki is in the cellar of the department store Sokos, or the point zero, from where all distances of the country are measured.

Saint Vassily and Lev Asko at zero at his name's day Seppo at zero Lyudmila and Lev Red Square
The best church pictures 'below the desk' (look here)

Fist taxi takes along. Soon Lev and I leave the Red Square and our friends, when Virve has promised to take care of my valige at the hotel. We take a 'fist taxi' and drive through a half of the city to the South side of it. (The expression 'fist taxi' may be my own invention as Lev gets it by rising his fist). In the West it is called black taxi or whatever. Here it means that you can stop almost anybody and he will offer a hike. In my opinion it is a brilliant solution from the point of wiev of all others than professional taxi drivers. Why should all private persons drive alone, when you can split the cost and get other external economies, such as less congested traffic and more effective use of energy. Simply an economic, ecological and social solution of the traffic problem, especially in a big old city. This kind of fist taxi costs generallay about half of the price of a normal taxi. The fare is agreed in advance and paid on arrival. Our guide says that about every third car stops and takes a hiker. This our taxi costs 400 rbl (11 euro). A normal taxi would be some 700 for at least 15 km drive, no price at all even that compared with Helsinki but here the price of gas is about a half of what it is in Finland.

lunch - обед Lev lives about as modestly as I, in an about 50 square metres flat, with a separate kitchen unlike me. He has lived there more than ten years, so the whole place is full of books and art. The flat is in the 14th store of a giant house of at least 20 stores. Nothng else is missing, but balcony and a sauna, which I have as most new flats in Finland. Yes, and the dining table, if you think it at that way. His dining table is seen in the picture, undeniably a small one, particularly keeping in mind the copious Russian food culture. We consume a delicious lunch, all what is seen in the picture except that half of the brandy remains. (compare last year). We take a rest, espacially I, in complete tranquility. Then we take a metro through the center to the very Northern edge of the city. It takes almost an hour in a terrible noise, no way of discussing.

marathonists Merry evening. But Tuesday's (my names's day, by the way) program is not at end yet. As the picturs demonstrate, we spend a merry night together with the other part of our group in the restaurant of the giant hotel Cosmos. I am very pleased, as Lev completely mixes with us. As if there would not be any language barrier at all. Thanks to Virve who mainly takes care of that matter. It is a really pleasan situation, when it turns out that a real marathon runner is among us. Keijo and Lev shake hands and a lively discussion follows. This evening is one of the highpoints of our trip.


Tuesday's pictures Moscow ( 61)
Steps 8372. o Comment Tuesday!
Kindle: An Introduction to Philosophy (George Stuart Fullerton) Loc. 2328: 80-128=48p

20110907ke
Margi
Aamiainen hotellissa.
Moskovan keskustaan mennään metrolla. Metromatkan aikana tutustutaan upeisiin metroasemiin. Asemat on koristeltu sankaripatsain, maalauksin, lasimaalauksin, veistoksin, mosaiikein ja kimaltelevin kattokruunuin.

Opastettu kaupunkikierros jatkuu Punaiselle Torille. Sen alkuperäinen nimi Kauppias-tori muutettiin 1600-luvulla Punaiseksi toriksi. Venäjänkielinen sana красная (krasnaja) tarkoittaa sekä punaista että kaunista. Alueen tunnetumpia nähtävyyksiä ovat Leninin mausoleumi ja Pokrovan tuomiokirkko (Pyhä Vasilin Katedraali). Katedraali on omintakeinen sekoitus itämaisia ja länsimaisia vaikutteita ja sen värikkäät kierteiset kupolit ovat Venäjän ja Moskovan tunnetuimpia symboleita. Kalliita putiikkikauppoja löytyy GUM-ostoskeskuksessa.

Seuraavaksi tutustutaan korkean muurin ympäröimään Kremliin. Moskovan historiallisen keskuksen, Kremlin, alueelta löytyy palatsien ja museoiden lisäksi useita kultakupolisia kirkkoja, joista upeimmat kartoittavat tsaarien ja tsaariperheen elämää ja arkea kruunajaisista kuolemaan: Marian taivaaseen astumisen kirkossa tsaarit kruunattiin, Neitsyt Marian ilmestymisen kirkossa he harjoittivat uskontoaan ja Arkkienkeleiden kirkkoon prinssit ja tsaarit lopulta haudattiin. Kremlin kuuluisassa Spasskaja-tornissa ovat Kremlin kellot, joiden lyönnit toistetaan radiossa kolmesti joka päivä. Vaikuttavia ovat myös valtava Tsaarin kello ja painaava kanuuna.

Tutustutaan mielenkiintoiseen Asehuoneeseen, joka sijaitsee vastapäätä Arkkienkeli Mikaelin kirkkoa. Alun perin tilaan jätettiin aseet, joita ei saanut viedä kirkkoon mukaan. Jossain vaiheessa siitä tehtiin Venäjän tsaarien saamien lahjojen ja lopulta myös regalioiden säilytyspaikka. Kremlin kuuluisimman museon aarteiden joukkoon lukeutuu vanhoja venäläisiä kruununkalleuksia, tsaarien seremonia-asuja, vaunuja ja monia muita tsaarien Venäjän loistonpäivien muistomerkkejä. Kreml kuuluu UNESCO:n maailman perinnön luetteloon.

Lounas.
Sen jälkeen kävellään vielä Arbatilla, joka on Moskovan vanhimpia katuja. Bussikuljetus hotelliin. (Margi)

Moskovan_Kreml o Moscow_Kremlin o Московский Кремль o Kremlin_asehuone o Kremlin_Armoury o Оружейная палата o (Арбат)
Resting. Wednesday morning I hurry to breakfast together with others, but then remain resting, when others go to a long walk around the centre of the city, as I assess it in advance. Now looking at the program conceived by Margi, I see that I really havew seen the places mentined in it exccept of perhaps the most important of them, or the Saint Vassily Cathedral, perhaps the turistically most important place of Moscow. I have pictures about it, also here, but all outside. I would be grateful for pictures taken inside it. I suppose that also interior pictures were allowed as all over with certain conditions. Also other pictures taken today are welcome. I would be glad to put them visible to everybody as are my own pictures.

Fist taxi bringing Asko to lunch Heavy traffic experience. So I remain resting the morning and take at least twice a nap. Feel good. But I wonder, whether I really avoided many steps with my alternative program, which consisted of nothing attractive. I went by own means to the common lunch in the restaurant Godunov. It was quite a lot more complicated matter than I foresaw in advance. Outright an exciting experience. I had in mind the word of our great guide Lyudmila: taxi from our hotel to the restaurant some 700 rbl (19 e), fist taxi about half of that and every third car stops to take a hiker. I look the direction according to sun and go with my poles first to east along a main street. The fist does not bite at all. Nobody even stops. I decide to continue to the next important crossroad, from where there is a street to South. At least a kilometre. Then I turn, deciding by the Sun, towards South. Quite a street this too, lot of traffic. But nobody pays any notion on my fist. Perhaps they do not like my sticks. During the whole trip, I did not see one only stick walker. Certainly a kilometre again, certainly more than half an hour in time towards the South, every now and then wifting my hand to the cars in suitable places. A couple of cars stop, or perhaps they were ready stopped at the edge of the street. The drivers shake their head, when I ask about a drive to the center. Then at last success. A man about sixty takes my offer of 400 rbl (11e) to the Bolshoi theatre at the center of the city. Of the restaurant Godunov he had never heard. The man is clearly conscious of the places and avoids gongestions, but the trip takes more than half of an hour. I would remember that I left the hotel about one and was clearly late in arriving, may be a quarter or even more, and as also others are late I probably used 1½ hours, of that half to looking for the car and half to beiong driven by it.

Wrong direction. When now looking at the Coogle map, I observe that I have started exactly to the opposite direction of what I should have done: Cosmonaut street to the East, when West would have been right and soon I had been able to turn tos the South. According to the map the direct way would have been 12,8 km and the time estimate 25 minutes (by car). This is what it is, straying of a senseless. Somewhat consolating was the telephone call of Virve saying that also others were late. At that time I already sat in the car. I sat on the back bench, so communicating with the driver was difficult, especially when the traffic needed all his attention. The traffic was such a 'porridge' that I would never have believed. An incredible amount of cars. Streets planned who knows how long ago, now widening, now narrowing with the consequence of constant need to change the file. When there was more space, the car accelerated a good deal. But then, on the other side, we stood several minutes in a jam. But finally reached the destiny. He would have brought me to the very Godunov, but not knowing how to go there it was considered wisest to stop at the top of the square, Godunow being already visible at a distance. A sign on the roof, but almost impossible to be seen.

Horror story. Seeing on the map I do not wonder, why going from the hotel, I did not see any taxi stations, neither any metro station, it is just all park area. Afterwards almost a horror hushed in mind: what if I didd not find a fist taxi? How far had I been obliged to go? No help of telephone either. The only way would perhaps have been to go in a shop, because there were some kiosck like shops, and ask them to help. Then I did not panik, however, but slow walk with sticks started to make me feel tired. 9525 steps today. How many were there after the restaurant, when we went to the shops near by? Would 1000 at breakfast and 1500 in the evening be enough. Also the evening walk seemed longish feeling already tired. Accordingly from Cosmos to Godunov some 7000 steps, makes about 4 km. Maybe I went along the route of the map at right as long as to the Bogorodskoe main street before I got the fist taxi. That makes the 4 km and by foot more than an hour. From Cosmos to Bolshoi 18 km in all, of which the fist taxi 14 km. Certinly not enough and did not drive this straight way although also navigator used. Friendly old man, cultivated way of speaking. Did I give my card. I should have asked his internet address. (Click the map below and below it further a larger map, you will see a 'living map', on which you can, using the mouse, change the route, getting all time the distance estimate. Whoever would have believed that only a few years ago!).

Suoraan 12,8 km AJK 4+14=18 km

After exciting experiences Godunov is found. I believe that I heard a sigh of relief, when stepping in and a place in the table is shown for me. What ever delicacies did we get here. Tasty it was, anyway, and the interior of the restaurant, can I say: national romantic. - Oh yes, now I remember that entering to the restaurant I was recognized at once and brought to the right place before I had time to say 'zdrastvuite!' or ask anything. Mother Virve had undoubtedly given instructions. No wonder that a sigh. The man with the sticks found his way. Thanks for taking care!
Russian Salad with fresh Vegetable,served with Oil Rassolnik" (Salted Cucumbers, Potatoes, Cabagge, Meat..) Chicken shaslyk - Ice-Cream - Mineral Water, - Tea or Coffee

Smolensk cathedral - Novodevitch Arbat. But our day did not end at Godunov. I almost forgot Arbat and a very good roundtrip the way thereto. A short way from Godunov to Arbat, so we quite intentionally made a roundabout. Woud the Seafarer monument help in location? Yes, the monument of Peter the Great is found, but I cannot make the living map show a sensible route via it to Arbat. It is clear, anyway, that we made a roundabout and did not go straight. We even went to Novodevitch monastery, because they did not manage it yesterday properly. In the picture window there is more information.

The Arbat itself is like the Seine coast boulevard or any of those places where artists gather themselves in the world. It was that already in soviet times. Some time I went there and still a cheap small beautiful painting is hanging home. They are availble also now and new are being made on spot. Here I cannot buy anything, because I do not feel needing anything, but I get done an important matter. With the help of Lyudmila we go to post office and I buy 90 stamps to be fixed on as many post cards (90x25r=2250r=60e). Some years ago I came to think that cards may be prepared in advance, so that they may be sent easily and quikly with neat addresses on them ready. Here the card this time and here instructions according to which anybody could do them. This way you can send very personal cards, put the recipient's picture in a field (if you can trust that he does not think that the same card is send all over).


Wednesday's pictures Moscow ( 74)
Steps 9525. o Comment Wednesday!
Kindle: An Introduction to Philosophy (George Stuart Fullerton) Loc. 3156: 128-175=47s

20110908to
Margi
Aamiainen hotellissa
Moskovasta lähdetään Sergiev Posadiin. Kaupungin tunnetuin nähtävyys on Sergein Pyhän kolminaisuuden luostari, jonka on perustanut munkki Sergei Radonezhiläinen 1300-luvun puolivälissä ja kuuluu UNESCO:n maailmanperintölistalle. Tämä toiminnassa oleva luostari on Venäjän ortodoksisen kirkon hengellinen keskus. Siellä on myös tsaari Boris Godunovin hauta. Sergiev Posad tunnettiin neuvostoaikana nimellä Zagorsk.

Siirrytään Rostoviin (Rostov Velikij).

Ennen tutustumista kaupunkiin nautimme lounaan.
Rostov on mainittu aikakirjoissa ensimmäisen kerran vuonna 862 ja se on yksi Venäjän vanhimpia kaupunkeja. Rostov on myös yksi kauneimmista Kultaisen kehän kaupungeista. Kreml ja luostarit on rakennettu järven rannalle ja näkymä luostariin ja Kremliin yli Nerojärven on kuin sadusta. Tutustumme Kremliin ja Pyhä Jakobin luostariin. Kaupunki on kuuluisa emalitöistään, vieraillaan myös Emalin museossa. Yövytään hotellin „Moscow path“ *** standard-huoneissa. (Margi)

Sergijev_Posad o Sergiyev_Posad o (nordictravel) o Сергиев Посад
(Asko and Salli were in Zagorsk in 1970)
1970 Zagorsk - Segiev Posad 2011
Map
Zagorsk 1970 Sergiev Posad 2011 Golden Ring
The same view from the same road. (Click the map, get a 'living one').
Rostov o Rostov (eng) o Ростов
Ростов Великий - жемчужина "Золотого кольца России" (Rostov Velikij the pearl of the Golden Ring)
Golden Ring. In Thursday, then begins our Golden Ring (кольцо also circle, wheel) proper. Interesting case in the way that in the first stop at Sergiev Posad I have been before as early as in 1970. At that time it was called Zagorsk. Then the trip was a lot more complicated, unallowed in addition. So, this excellent picture, that I unintentionally managed to renew, had to be taken secretly. Our host stopped the car and lifted the hood, as if studying something, while I took the picture. As a matter of fact, the almost identical new picture is no wonder. When an attractive view, a church or a monastery turns afore, it is a natural reaction to make a picture. Now, in making the picture I did not have in mind repeating the older one. Will always remember it, but at that moment no. It just turned out that way.

Fmiliar place. Having arrived I easily recognize the place, although I think that we arrived from the opposite direction or uphill, whereas now downhill. A similar square was there that time too in front of the monastery gate. I think that also souvenir sale existed, if not as large as it is now. I regret that I did not buy anything now, for instance that pillow cover. Pastries I did buy, but did they last as long as on arrival at home, I doubt. Inside the monastery I very hard tried to remember some detail of the previous visit, but was very disappointed as nothing came to my mind although the same old buildings necessarily were there. From that visit I only have a clear picture in my mind of the many scarf headed babushki on the yard all carrying their aluminium containers to which they then took of the blessed water.

Family idyll outside the pioneer camp fence That trip then had also another purpose. The son of the host family, 7 year old boy, was on a camp all summer long somewhere close here. It was not allowed that the parents went to the camp, but through the opening in the fence the boy appeared and the family gathering was ready. No weeping or sorry faces, as is seen in the picture. At that time the state took care of the education of children also in their leisure time. This boy became then diplomate, learned Finnish language as his father earlier and spent some time in Finland, visited also us at home. Later on, the contact has disappeared.

But we have still a good piece of way ahead... Rostoviin ollaan matkalla. Do not know, how many Rostovs there are in Russia, Google offers some. (Margi's time table says: Rostov Velikiy, 120 km). This is not the most famous one or Rostov on Don, although not far from it. If this were it, there were two acquaintances here. They do not know me, but I know tem. The world recordsman in hammerthrowing Yuri Sedyh and his class mate the highjumper Valentina (or was it Tamara?) Bykova. I had the honor of interviewing the latter at the Helsinki World Championship Games in 1983. Stayed in mind because it so nicely turned out.

Green Oak café Green Oak. Coffee tooth is aching severely, so severely that we are obliged to convince the recalcitrant driver to stop at a roadside café by name Green Oak (Зеленая Дубрава). There it was a little 'holodno' (cool), but blankets were available. That part of the café was mentioned as summer terrace in the sign above the roof already. As we did not have a general meeting where we would have been presented by name, I got the idea of making a video clip of everybody saying first name. Now I have watched them and made a collection, but not quite successfully. The originals are saved. Maybe another time better result.

Videos I will work out the last thing, although there has been inquiries about them already. Quite an unexpected person: Roman, our splendid guide in Rostov and Vladimir. 'Splendid guide' - I have not yet duly praised Lyudmila, our guide during all our trip. When Lyudmila first opened her mouth, I was disappointed: that terrible Finnish. But already at the second opening we all loved her and soon learned to understand her sometimes peculiar expressions. She really had prepared herself to this job. Of course, language and knowledge is important, but still more important is the sapproach and relationship. Lyudmila takes us all her own just asd we do take her. I expect that she would take contact, as we agreed that I would 'improve' some of her written texts, at the same time hoping that she would do the same with my Russian texts, the translation of this travel story. Actually Lyudmila has contacted and praised the pictures of this story mentioning me as a good photographer. I, however suspect that she has see Keijo's quite fantastic pictures before I separated them from my pictures, thinking that his pictures are mine.

Mouse nest Only a short way from the café of the Green Oak to Rostov and our next lodging in the "Moskovsky trakt" hotel. But we also eat lunch at a place, flower of wood architecture, a restaurant called Мышкин (Myshkin - how to translate, perhaps 'Mouse nest', мышка is mouse). The place is a kindo of tourism fortress. We are hungry and the food is good. (Virve's menu: Salad (cabbage, paprika, egg, mayonese) - Borsch -'Beefstroganoff" garnished buckwheat - Strudel - Compot + mineral water).

Then again churches and monasteries. 'Kreml and Saviour Monastery Yakovlev, we also visit 'Emalin museossa' that is what Margi's program says. Already head is ... we are confused, the quota is getting full, as somebody says. Undoubtedly everything worth seeing, but some time for digesting would be necessaary. What was that 'Emalin museo'? Did we go there?

Round house. At the end of a long day we come to our lodging 'Moscow Path'. A foolish place. If we experience some turning around in our heads, this is round the whole place. It is a joke to speak about a round room or cell. This is that the whole building. At once I come to think: how are the rooms? a rounding outwards wall? narrowing side walls? The rooms are really placed at the round outwards wall, but there is a rounded balcony, no rounded room wall. Neither any narrowing of the side walls.

A very merry night bite in the center of the second floor of the round building. How to tell it here? Participasting our trip my former student, about 40 years ago. Sitting at my side and willing absolutely to offer me my 'bite'. I oppose, but finally agree. I had already forgotten, who paid in the train when we came. What a pity: красная икра - red caviar is perhaps the only not completely delicious food. Quite honestly said: is the fault in the mouth or is it in the food? Might be also in the mouth, but the food looks unfamiliar, like rainbow trout roe, but at least three times as big as whart I have earlier tasted, the best roe of all: home the absolute traditional delicacy of every Christmas and New Year.


Thursday's pictures Sergiev Posad ( 82)
Steps 7836. o Comment Thursday!
Kindle: An Introduction to Philosophy (George Stuart Fullerton) Loc. 3502: 175-197=22s

20110909pe
Margi
Aamiainen
Aamiaisen jälkeen lähtö Suzdal-kaupunkiin (180 km). Kirjoittautuminen hotelli „Suzdaliin“ ***.
Lounas
Suzdal ja Vladimir kuuluvat UNESCO:n maailman perinnön listaan. Suzdalista on ensimmäinen maininta vuodelta 1024 ja se on yksi parhaiten säilyneitä Venäjän vanhoista kaupungeista. Täällä on loistavia arkkitehtonisia muistomerkkejä eri aikakausilta, jotka ovat säilyttäneet alkuperäisen luonteensa ja ulkonäkönsä. Viehättävässä Suzdalissa voi tuntua astuvansa puolivuosituhatta ajassa taaksepäin ja kokea, miltä on tuntunut asua muinaisvenäläisessä kaupungissa. Suzdalin kohokohtiin kuuluvat Kreml ja Pyhän Euthymiusin luostari. 1300-luvulla Suzdalista tuli kirkollinen keskus lukuisine luostareineen. Suzdalin Kreml on kaupungin sydän, joka muodostaa kirkkoineen upean arkkitehtuurisen kokonaisuuden. Mahtava on Pyhä Euthymiusin Luostari ja sen Katedraali, jonka interiöörissä on entistettyjä upeita freskoja. Luostarissa on toiminut myös myös vankila, jossa nyt on luostarin sotaisesta historiasta kertova museo. Tutustutaan vielä mielenkiintoisen puuarkkitehtuurin museoon. (Margi)

Suzdal o Суздаль o Suzdal_Kremlin o Суздальский кремль o Monastery_of_Saint_Euthymius o Спасо-Евфимиев монастырь
Музей деревянного зодчества (Museum of Wooden Architecture)
Church behind a rainy bus window In Friday after the breakfast a rapid start is taken from the round house. Then there is quite a rain already. Although breakfast taken, coffee (and toilet) is needed about the half way of the long voyage. There are no pictures of the coffee break, but a coiuple of pictures showing the selection offered by the neighbouring food store (Продукты). I could not decide to buy anything here. Was this the store that we emptied of the delicious cranberry liquor? We continue the trip, at least one pictue showing the rainy weather.

Hotel with tapeworm wings. In Suzdal we come to one of the most curious achievements of the hotel building industry, hotel Suzdal. The reception of the hotel is quite innocent looking and ordinary place. The curiosity is revealed, when we start lodging. Over 200 rooms and sweets of the hotel are placed on two sides of the reception part along long corridors. It so happened that my room was at the end of one of the two corridors and the restaurant just at the other end of the other corridor. My stepcounter measured more than a thousand steps for to and fro walk for the breakfast. A nice idea: joining breakfast and jogging. But dragging the valige on small rolls from one end of the corridor to the other does not make a half lame man with a stick laugh. Otherwise the premises and services are ok. Good food (-Meat salad "Stolichnyi" -Mushroms in sour-cream -Pork "Delikatesnaya" with garnish - Blinys "A-la Suzdalski" -Coffee; - Cranberry drink) and a sufficiently comfortable room. Virve, however was not content with her room: bathroom not good enough. So we all got new rooms recently renovated. Next morning in the aula waiting for departure I got the architectural idea of my life, the only one as far: the hotel should have been built according to 'cockroach' scheme. Reception in the centre and rooms in six in stead of two corridors. That way the length of the corridors only one third of the present. Hindsight being the easiest art of wisdom...

Click and read! Museum of Wooden Architecture. Also here did we avoid churches and monastries, although the point of saturation has been about reached. But first something else: we get acquainted with an excellent museum of wooden architecture. At the same time we get acquainted also with an excellent man by name Roman, our local guide for the next two days. He knows everything and is able to deal his knowledge in suitable portions to us, through the already familiar to us interpretation of Lyudmila. I feel that I get clearly something extra being able to follow easily the original output of Roman's mouth. Yes, 'by name Roman', there is a special story connected, even two. The first is that otherwise his name would have been forgotten (name memory of this age!?), but then I found out: let me look at these photographs. Quit right: look yourself! In the pictue here you will see,what I saw: in the name tag of Roman you can easily read 'Roman Gorelyshev' and above it also 'Горелышев Роман Викторович'.

The other story: Yesterday (20110925) I see in the mailbox of my Gmail a strange sender name грег вайтхулл. I am wondering and almost throw away the message as obvious spam (almost all my spam comes from Russia). I do open it, however. What is revealed? The sender adres starts with the name bekelov175 and the signature is 'Roman'. From the contents becomes clear that it is our Roman. Me sending message and naming him a mystical person and asking his real name. Soon I get the answer: Roman Gorelyshev, but he wants to hide behind a pseudonyme грег вайтхулл in his English correspondence. The beginning bekelov175 stems from his mothers family. I express my gratitude and assure him that even if I had thrown the first message as spam, I would have asked Lyudmila, whether she knows his address just to thank him for his excellent guidance. I always deal my cards hoping to get acquainted with new people, but only extremely rarely people send messages on that ground. Therefore I have decided to try to get the address right away.

The museum is excellent and gives a positive picture both of the wellbeing of people some 150 years ago and of the later generations apreciative attitude to earlier generations. There is a common notion that the 70 years of communism completely wiped away all old as a bourgeoise leaven, but that is luckily not the case. Not even churches and monastries were destroyed, but such notion emerges that it was well decided that decisions were made to eradicate this old leaven, but the fulfillment of these decisions was incomplete, as if in the hind part of brain there would have stayed a magical fear that God anyway exists and punishes the illdoers.

Clockwork of Saint Euthymius Euthymiuksen kellopeli. Then we get acquainted with Saint Euthymius monastery. Again a delicious coincidence, something like in the case of two identical photos with 40 interval at Sergiev Posad. I suddenly remember that I have not made too many videos. Now we hear clockwork sound. I record it in several clips while marching towards the sound hoping that also the clocks would become visible. Luckily there is enough power in the battery and we reach the scene of clocks before the end of play. The last clip I join. In it really the clocks are seen (far however) and the sound heard. What a pity that the camera hand shakes after walk. Very suitable end repliques are terminate the clip. A Russian woman voice: Молодец! (Great!), clapping of hands and somebody of us saying: Kiitos! (thanks).

The special coincidence here is that after the trip I still once read the splendid description of the Golden Ring by St. Petersburg professor Pompeev. I got it from him just one day befor the trip, so no possibility to translate it to get a first class guidance for our roundtrip. Now I have joined it to this story as a worthy frame story. In that story there is a sentence: 'Колокольный звон, который мы слушали в Спасо-Евфимиевском монастыре, не мог оставить равнодушным. Многие из нас даже достали диктофоны, пытаясь записать этот глубокий звук.' The sound of the clocks that we heard in Spaso-Euthymius monastery could not leave indifferent. Many of us took dictaphone(!) and tried to record this deep sound.' Texts of Pompeev are of top quality. His 'История и философия отечественного предпринимательства' (History and philosophy of the Russian entrepreneurship) should be obligatory reading in courses of Eastern trade.

Home reception at Seppo's and Ritva's At the end of a laborious day there is still home reception of Seppo and Ritva. Folks do not seem to be very tired, although such a lot of experiences are behind.


Friday pictures at Suzdal ( 50)
Steps 7955. o Comment Friday!
Kindle: An Introduction to Philosophy (George Stuart Fullerton) Loc. 4269: 197-236=39 p

20110910la
Margi
Aamiainen
Aamiaisen jälkeen siirrytään Vladimiriin. Kaupunki on saanut nimensä perustajansa prinssi Vladimir Monomahin mukaan. Vladimir rakennettiin linnoitukseksi vuonna 1108 ja saman vuosisadan loppupuolella siitä tuli Kiovan Venäjän pääkaupunki. Kaupungin ainutlaatuiset arkkitehtoniset mestarityöt yhdessä kulttuuri- ja taidemuistomerkkien kanssa edustavat venäläisten käsityöläisten ja taiteilijoiden henkisyyttä ja taituruutta. Kaupungin Kultainen portti on hienoa nähtävää, samoin Pyhän Dimitrin katedraali ja Jumalanäidin kuolonuneen nukkumisen katedraali, jonka kohokohtia ovat upean ulkomuodon lisäksi Andrei Rublevin ja joidenkin muiden mestarien seinämaalaukset. Myös 1200-luvulta peräisin oleva Dmitrin katedraali on näkemisen arvoinen kiviveistostensa takia. Yhtenäisyydessä katedraali edustaa Venäjän ja Bysantin mestarien todella upeata työtä. Tutustutaan näyttelyyn Vanha Vladimir ja käydään Kristallimuseossa. Paluumatkalla Moskovaan ehditään käydä vielä Bogoljubovin luostarissa. (Margi)
Lounas ja paluu Moskovaan, juna-asemalle.

Vladimir o Vladimir (eng) o Владимир (город) o Bogoljubov o Andrey_Bogolyubsky o Андрей Юрьевич Боголюбский

2250 Tolstoi-juna lähtee Helsinkiin Leningradskin vakzalista.
Still a whole day left of this great fun, the longest day, measured by step counter. There is galore of program left: churches and museums, some participation in a folk festival and even wedding. Finally time is spent in an incredibly big shopping center below the Red Square, then finally in the waiting room of the railway station. This is not only mere standing, because step counter shows record number, more than 12000, some 7,5 km, which is much for me nowadays.

Scheme map of Suzdal sights Vladimir. After a record long breakfast walk and a full length dragging of suitcase we will be moving. The first etappe is the city of Vladimir (rule the world!), in a distance of merely 40 km. From there sometimes really 'world was ruled', it was the capital of the predecessor of Kiev Rus, the first present sized Russian state, according to which the state then adopted its name. But already on our way, early in the morning , we stop to watch a church, what was its name and would go to another crossed a railway to some corner of a corn field, but as there would have been crossing a mud field, we just looked at it over the field. What were the names of these holy places? I do not know. Lyudmila would know. May be reads this and sends the information to me. About this time we also saw a stone age settlement by the name Sungir. That strange name I happen to know, because I specially asked a babushka about it at the entrance. At the same time I bought a brochure or 'map scheme' as the Russian name says. Its back cover in the illustration on right.

Golden Gate, Vladimir In Vladimir we come into the midst of a trafic chaos. Today it is Vladimir's annual day and a big folk festival. Everybody is out and on the streets and certain streets are closed. Our driver, however, successfully persuades trafic controllers and we get quite near the most important historic monument of Vladimir, the Golden Gate. It played a decisive role in the struggle against the mongol domination. The Defence of Vladimir is called a battle in 1238, of which there is on the upper level of the monument a five minute animation or stereo panorama as they call it, of a situation, where Mongols attack and Russians defend. You see from the picture that it is raining. Luckily not very heavily.

Vitrin of Glass Museum, Vladimir After the Golden Gate we see Glass Museum. Luckily I took enough pictures in a practically systematic manner. The colors are magnificent and the glass very stylish. That kind of results are only possible with long traditions. The handling of the glass has remained the same for thousands(!?) of years, it is blown into a pipe. Suitably turning and applying 'scissors' and other instruments of form giving most wonderful forms are created. A different thing is then honing the glass to facets to get light in shades. Colors are obtined by using metallic ocsides. Every metal gives its own characteristic color. Iron gives green, so also chrome, cobolt gives blue, coal brown and gold red and so on.

Merry go round, Vladimir Folk festival. Then a real hulabaloo begins. Folk is flowing to the surroundings of the Golden Gate an a young lady gives instructions with a loudspeaker. Also lottery coupons are dealt to entice people to participate. To what? To a big ring around the Golden Gate. Hundreds are needed, would I risk saying that 500 people are needed until the ring is whole and complete. Then the training for the ring dance is starting. Steps are taken forward and backward, two forward, two back, now round you go. At about ten meter intervals young trainers are showing. May be a quarter of an hour continues the training. I wonder whether I should start videoing. Then finally I get decided. Luckily so, the real thing starts, dance by loudly sounding music.

Wedding folks under the Golden Gate Wedding. And the celebration is not finished yet. Waiting for others to return from a church visiting round a wedding society appears under the Golden Gate. Quite obviously it is the tradition here, photographing under the gate. This is what happens. And everybody seems to know without instructions what to do, how to pose. First the team forms a honorary alley under the gate. Then the wedding pair starts from one end of the alley with festival steps. Folk starts to shout rythmically along the obligatory Russian habit Горько!, Горько! (Bitter! Bitter!). Notwithstanding the literary meaning this means: Kiss!, Kiss! That is what the youg pair does according to the several times repeated command. This all is taken on video. (Also behind the picture aside there is a video). Then all regroup in a half circle without any instructions for the ordinary photographing. Of the fact that all this goes on so rapidly without anybody directing, I draw the conclusion that this is here a usual and traditional procedure. Everybody knows what to do. Otherwise everythin ok, but one thing I do not understand: all women have about 20 cm high heels. How on earth can they walk on the stone paved street? I do not see, however, anybody stumble, when they without lingering exit.

Maybe only Taru and me saw the ring dance and the wedding folks ceremony,because others went to see the Dmitri Cathedral and the Spasski Cathedral on some walking distance. That is what the program says. It would be nice to join here some pictures or comments on these. Thanking in advance.

Traktir. Program in Vladimir is not finished yet, but we go to eat lunch here, too. The name of the place is Traktir. Quite ordinary food there too. But I forget to take pictures, neither do I remember, what exactly di we eat. As far as I remember, Virve used to tell everywhere the menu. If Virve now reads this and the menus are saved, she could send them to me. I could put them on the page. For me these local food specialities are the most important thing of all travels, more important than museums and all that. - Here is what Virvew has produced. Thank uopu so much. I have included them all over in all versions of the story. Maybe still embellish them some way. (-Vegetable salad -Chicken noodle soup -Chicken with rice -Cabbage pirozhok -Tea or Coffee; -Mineral water)

During this meal I got again a good proof of Virve's abilities in human relations. Our team had gradually started to consider our hoarse voiced and taciturn driver some kind of strange guy. In Virve's treatment he was wax and spoke in a remarkably cultivated manner about the sights of the region and, as far as I remember correctly, about fine arts. I think that this Virve's particularity is behind her success in business. She relates to people positively, so they do the same to you. The most important passage of Lev Balashov's book 'Practical philosophy' is the Golden rule of behavior: Behave with others so as you would like others behave with you. This is, as far as I understand, also the core of the mountain sermon.

Timo with cat, VladimirAnother significant episode in Traktir is Timo and cat! Although I myself fear absurdly all animals bigger than rat, I manage to take nice pictures of Timo and cat. But it is only a bleak echo of the philosophic monology of Timo about this topic. Could it also be put in words and joined here?

Teremok Underground shopping center. Then we drive to Moscow, quite a bit yet, 200 km. We have plenty of opportunities to be horrified of the traffic. Many of us would not like to go there. But our driver does it fine. A small collection on arrival to Moscow is handed to him. Seppo and Ritva take care that also our lovely Virve and Lyudmila get a souvenir of us. In Moscow we dive underground to 'Охотный ряд' (Ohotnyj rjad - Hunter's paradise(?) - 'rjad' actually 'row') shopping center to spend our resting roubles. I find my way to the lowest, mentioned also cheapest level asking whether I could find Russian food there. I would think that this kind of inquiry is sneered, as McDonalds and all kinds of pizzas and pastas are displayed all over. Most people really go to those places, but full of people is also my pace 'Теремок' (chambers!?), even youth. I take still borsch and mushroom blinis with the genuine russian home made kvass ale. As is seen aside: 224r = 6e. All worth of it. From the web album picture you can see that the setting left something to wish. As a desert I join Jarkko and Marja in a small café to drink cappucino and make a blunder as thinking it afterwards: not giving a dole to a beggar asking it. Jarkko instead has his social conscience left and gives to the man something. The man exits with a mine that reflects thankfulness to the donor.

Ivan's surprise. Still comes our transport bus to take us to the Leningrad railway station, wher we spend at least an hour in a dreary waiting room. Even there some local tidbits. Then to the train. Right at the beginning I promised to turn back to 'Ivan'. Here it is, also tomorrow morning I will return to Ivan. When toting to the train, there is Ivan, the acquaintance from the incoming train a week ago - standing by the locomotive - and recognizing me and greeting!!! I make it sure in the morning by asking him. Yes, he recognized and greeted. I wonder very much, but in the end: sticks, sticks!


Saturday pictures Vladimir
( 62)
Steps 12830. o Comment Saturday!
Kindle: Common Sense ($.99 Patriot Classics - Complete Original Text) (Thomas Paine) - Bookmark Loc. 395: 24s

20110911su
1200 Train arrives in Helsinki
Breakfast - a piece of art Double breakfast. Surprising experiences also today, the day of home arrival. I order tea and two sandwiches, one with metwurst and one with cheese remembering that these delicacies are not too big here. Express delivery by wagonmaster Volodya, who yesterday night presented a harsh sermony to me, when I hade helped my suitcase on the other bed, which I knew that it would remain empty, because I had ordered a first class single coupé. Very beautiful sandwiches! As art works I mention them to Volodya. Soon quickly they are consumed by a hungry man. But then again, I notice that I had forgotten the photos. That is too much! I order a new portion explaining the reason. Just a matter of money. Soon brings Volodya another portion, if possible still more beautiful. Quite first class photos did I not get: a part of the artist's head is out. Luckily eyes, however... Now I remember to ask also the email address. Scarcely has anybody taken pictures of him in the work. I think sent already. At least soon when I mail the link to this travel story.

Employed by the Russian Customs. We are approaching the state border. Customs officer comes, greets, goes. No reason for more. But then quite a noise of people speaking starts to be heard from the neighbouring cabin. There must be something extraordinary. Going by I had noticed a black girl with fearful eyes. It so develops that three, four officers gather and start negotiating. Soon comes surprisingly Volodya asking me, whether I speak French. Yes, I do. He says help being needed. It must be made clear to the young lady that she has to exit the train, because there is something not in order with her passport. Because of the surprising situation I am confused and scarcely can get words of my mouth, particularly because of this unknown to me very strange railway station name (Buslovskaya) and also as the most usual verb sortir (exit) will not come to my mind. The matter becomes clear, however. Only about the ambiguities of the pasport is in question. If everything is in order, she will get a ride to Helsinki with the next train Allegro, much finer than this. That is then the end of my employment by the Russian Customs Office. Then when the train starts moving I see on the platform the girl with her valige. Deciding od her way of speaking 'in a hollow way' within the mouth she was perhaps from Kongo. Now the other morning I heard in the radio a report of exactly this matter: during this year the Russian customs has arrested some forty Middle-African persons heading with forged passports to the Schengen area. In a way, I have rendered a service to the Fatherland...

How about the Finnish Customs? Hitherto they have just made honor at the door, but now start surprisingly asking and make me lift the suitcase on the opposite bed (What would Volodya say, if he saw). My suitcase is rummaged, a bag of medicine noticed. A surprisingly harsh sermon follows about how prescriptions must be along. I maundering that as there is only this one docetful on such a short trip. If the trip would be longer, prexcritions would automatically follow as the whole big bag would be there. I well understand what is the matter: narcotics, of course. I am ready to give away the docet, it should be empty, almost. Only a few drops of eye ointment against glaucoma and maybe Panadol. She really threatened: 'if she were more strait-laced...' as she said. It would have been interesting to see: doctor or customs officer? - There is the old Russian proverb 'Man consists of three parts: body, soul and passport (prescription). If one of them is missing, it is not man.'

Volodya. And still is there a small episode worth remembering here. Notwithstanding the double breakfast, I want to go still the last time to the restaurant wagon to taste genuine Russian delicacies, particularly the fish solyanka which remained unexperienced a week ago. Together with Tuulikki and Timo we are gathering to go. Comes to the spot Volodya and directly prohibits us to go yet. Then asks, what we would like to eat. We think: solyanka. He wants unconditionally effectuate the order himself. Goes, soon comes back and says: in 8 minutes it will be ready and you can go. Even today I do not understand, why this kind of behaviour. I suspoect that Volodya, a cultivated man, has paid attention to my title on my card and does not trust the country boy Ivan, but wants to do me a service, particularly as I had mentioned him as artist, photographed, email addresses had been exchanged. Maybe also his conscience after the yesterday sermon about the suitcase...

Chek To a ready table we then sit and our order is exactly fulfilled. And still biers, vodkas, and blinis, and coffees. And I see: also bread separately, (6x5=30r - 1 e). And also my cream is separately paid (3x20=60r - 2 e! They were all for my one cup). Ivan is in hurry, again no picture. I manage to ask about yesterday recognizing and greeting. Says he comes from Urals. Payment is taken care effectively by the boss of the restaurant wagon, a young lady. Division of the check: 1+2, нет проблема, payment in euro: no problem, in a moment, rapidly.


Sunday pictures in train
( 17)
Steps 1104, Sum 49642 = 28,8 km o Comment return trip!
Kindle: Common Sense ($.99 Patriot Classics - Complete Original Text) (Thomas Paine) - Note Loc. 833: 24-51 =27s
In all 161+51=212 pages read during the trip.

Timo's best

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