Yuri Pompeev
Golden Ring (Золотое кольцо)

1. History

«O Russia, you white as light, beautifully red! Many are your beautiful lakes, wonderful rivers and sources, regions, steep mountains, high hills, oak forests, fields, manifold animals, countless birds, great cities, wonderful villages, with their glorious soldiers, noble people, you have everything galore, Russian land, oh orthodox and Christian!».

This text from a miraculously saved pergament volute has been written in Vladimir between 1238 and 1246, Jaroslav Vsevolodovich being the prins. It is not the first time, when high brow poetry revives a person appreciating old history and architecture, if he happens to come to the olden roads of the region northeast of Moscow. These roads have originated the symbolic denomination of

Golden Ring. By the way, it is not at all a ring or cicumference, but a net of modern roads that unite mutually great museum townships in the heart of Russia. The most important of them are Sergiev Posad, Pereslavl-Zalesskij, Rostov Velikij, Jaroslavl, Kostroma, Ivanovo, Suzdal and Vladimir. And, of course, the white stony Moscow, of course also it! In these regions have been conserved many masterpieces of the Russian creative mind: Pokrov church in Nerl, Uspensk cathedral in Vladimir with frescos painted by Andre Rublev, monastery entities of Rostovi, Suzdal and Moscow Kremls, monasteries of Kostroma ja Jaroslavl. But what even more important - a wonderful unity of quality has been saved there, a unique folkloristic colouring. Great palaces, fortresses, temples and clock towers in these old towns are just like transferred from the Russian folkloristic tales.

Golden is a well deserved epithet for this road: the northwestern part of the Saint Russia is fabulously rich in historic and cultural monuments - products of human hand, testifying of historic events, tragedies, of national heroism.

The architecture of the entities connected with history creates a certain atmosphere, ambience, influences the consciousness, character of people, their behaviour in life and creative activity.

The totality of centennial continuity and entity, the enormous creativity of the Russian nation. A trip to the past is sometimes as fascinating as a trip to the future. In the past the fascination is in desire to see it with own eyes, live by details, learn sabout the life of compatriotes, in the way that it has been. There is a native human intellectual curiosity, desire to contact with other people, spiritual contact with heaven - in time and limitless space. White stone churches from 12. and 13. centuries came to play a special role, when the Vladimir-Suzdal greatness materialized: here, clearer than elsewhere, was seen the origin of national state, own culture and spiritual power, the humanistic, moral essence of our nation.

Mysterious stone writings and engravings, precious frises with sculptured decorations from the ages of centuries ago have been a fascinating riddle. The plastic decoration of the temples speaks in the language of parabols about the ideological human values, the significance of life.

Vladimir-Suzdal architecture is and stays the unsurpassed paramount of the ancient Russian architecture and plasticism. The golden treasure is not coincidentally entered into the list of World Heritage of UNESCO. The Russian masters have dreamed of the rise of these towns above the white shores as vigorous rainbow. They understood the profile of the earth and the natural beauty of the landscape astonishingly neatly, jolining to it their own buildings.

The constructors of the cities had a remarkably good 'shoulderfeeling', when they during centuries created unique entities. The feeling of the significance of the production was not absent in the creative activity of the ancient Russian people.

Present day traveler observes a proportionality in everything, the harmony of basic forms and details is present all over with an artistic sense of tact. The esthetic taste of the anonymous artists does not relax in any detail. During centuries the immortal dreamed beauty radiates in likeness of the sunshine into the cosmic infinity.

Nikolay Nikolayevich Voronin, historician of architecture, student of the Bogoljubov palace, laureate of the Lenin price, wrote in 1958, when Vladimir was 850 years old:

«Ancient Russian art had a firm relationship with the church. During seven centuries above all stone temples for centuries were built, richly decorated with mosaics and fresco paintings, gravures and worthy decorations. Because of this in the Vladimir-Suzdal area townships mostly monuments of cult are exposed in front of our eyes. But their real producers were the popular masters - architectors and sculptors, painters and goldsmiths, who descended of the craftsmen of the cities. Through their hands the artistic ideas of the power and church were materialized. In the construction of fortresses and palaces, temples the talent of the mighty choir of the popular masters was present».

2. Concentration of power

Without changing the travel guide we move to the Great Opolje - into the history of fruiful valleys, which begins at Vladimir and continues until Rostov Velikiy. The tumults of the Kiew life in 1100's, under the quarrels of the princes and the destruction of the polovetsians, of which emerged the emigration of Kiev Rus population from South to the Northeast, between Volga and Oka rivers. The Suzdal area was traditionally called Zalesskiy (behind the forest): in Kiew it was limited by eternal forests.

A significant intensification of Suzdal region starts of the 1097 year Lyubetchkoe congres time. In big cities, at that time: Rostov, Suzdal, Jaroslavl, Muroma and others, the power belonged to princes. So, as Vladimir Monomah was in power, his son Boris was in power in Rostov and his other son Gleb in Muroma.

During the period of the drain of Southern Russia, in Suzdal region the construction activity is envigorating. New cities, up to then unkown, are emerging one after another. In 1147 Moscow becomes known, in 1150 Pereslavl-Zalesskij, then Kostroma.

In the middle of 1100 from Kiew to North to Suzdal a straight road is being built. Rostov and Suzdal become a separate pricipality, and the first independent prince of the Suzdal region becomes the son of Monomah Juriy Vladimirovich Dolgorukiy. He is leading the red regiment the straight way from Rostov to Kiew. His son, the prince of Vladimir-Suzdal Vsevolod III, becomes a mighty prince, who, according to words of Boyana, the nightingale of olden times, the singer of 'A word of Igor's Regiment' was able to 'splash Volga with his oars, and bail Don with helmets’. He comes to lead Russia from the far-away Klyazma coasts, founding the tradition of autocracy.

The special prince of the Northeastern region, who often as the first, conquered new areas, not only led and ruled laws, but also as the first took to his ownership lands, considered himself and his family as belonging above the local owners. Yuri Dolgorukiy, on starting to build new cities in the Suzdal region, defined borders also for thousands of other people, giving them big loans. The power of the prince widened and augmented more than that of the Southwestern prices. According to the definition of the Russian historian, academician S.F. Platonov

’the regent of the Northeastern region owned the power of a regent and behaved accordingly’.

The Russian peasantry already existed for two hundred years. The only connection to the Russian soil was throuhg the sense of national unity, which is included in the orthodox religion. A man living in the world understood the world as an enormous unity.

Academician Dmitrij Sergeyevich Lihatshev assessed the ancient Russian so:

«His house was a red corner of the East. On his death he was put into grave with his head towars the West, in order that sun shined to his face. His churc was erected so that its altar was towards the rising day. In the temple the writings reminded him of the events of Old and New Testament, collected round him a realm of Sanctity: Holy soldiers beneath, marthyrs above,; in the dome the view of the resurrection of Christ was described, in the lateral ships supporting the dome there were evangelists. The church was a microworld and at the same time it was macroman. It had head, below the head neck and shoulders. The windows are in the facades of the temple (of this is testifying the etymology of the word 'okno' - window). Above the windows there were the eyebrows. Big world and small, universe and man! Everything was mutually connected, everything significant, everything reminds man of the thought of his existence, greatness of world and significance of the human exstence».

During the time before the Mongol era from 900 years to 1200 years, in the time of the establishment of the orthodox religion in Russia more than twohundred stone churches were erected. Of them only thirty have been conserved until our time, of them nine are monuments of Vladimir-Suzdal creative art. This art began to develop under Yuri Dolgorukiy. As the annales tell «God opened to him sensible eyes and he built many churches in the Suzdal region»

The significance of the settlement of this Norhteastern direction is desxcribed by the Russian historian V.O. Kljutshevskiy

«The main part of the Russian nation, after liberation of then external dangers at the river Oka and at the upper parts of Volga, collected his powers, which had been stayed there astray, gained powers in the forests of the Central Russia, saved the national existence and equiping for a fixed existendce of the form of government, came back to the South West, in order to save the weak Russian population from the alien nations' yog and influence».

3. Kiev Rus

The heyday of white stone creation and the rise of Vladimir to the leading position of the Holy Russia occurred to the rule of Andrej Bogoljubskiy. The Grand Duke of Vladimir and Suzdal, son of Yuri Dolgorukiy and polovetskian pricess, Vladimir Monomah' nephew came to the idea of transferring the capital of the Grand Duchy from Rostov to Vladimir: «And so this city gains the power of Grand Duchy and leadership over all others!».

The new capital, on leaving the situation between the rivers Kljazma and Lybedi is now on the slopes of hich hills, and after having founded on 900-ies Krasnoe Solyshko at the initiative of Vladimir and gaining of strength at the beginning of 1100 years on the action of Vladimir Monomah, works now according to the distinctive hymn of Creator and Theodokos. Main road to Vladimir, as also to Kiew, is through the city of Jaroslavl, the mother of Russian cities, was built in 1158-1164 Golden Gate and port to the placement of the Mother of God. The renovation and losses did not deprive the greatness of the firm Golden Gate, its unique authentity, which has been conserved to our days as the symbol of the city Vladimir. In 1238 the Golden Gate lasted the attack of the Golden Orda and was not ruined: the enemy was able to penetrate to the city only by hitting an opening to its wooden safety walls.

Prince Andrew Bogoljubskiy, born here, turned out to be unanimous with the mother of the cities. One of the later writings of annales explains it so:

«Confused prince Andrew, seeing then the distress of his brother, his children and other relatives, their eternal mutiny and exitedness, being obliged in all to accept the will of the Gand Duke of Kiew, nobody having any tranquility, therefore first turned to Grand Duke of Kiew, but when with it either any tranquility was, and the whole Grand Duchy was emptied, and still 'from the side of the wall'; of this prince Andrew greatly was annoyed secretly in his heart, although did not say to his father, and decided to go home to Rostov. Only then did Rostow get peace.».

Historician V.O. Klutshevskij testifies:

«Without asking his father, he quietly went away from his own Suzdal north, stealing with him the wondermaking ikon of Mother of God which was brought from Geece, which then remained with the name of Vladimir as the most important holy thing in Suzdal area.».

The Vladimir Mother of God is now kept in the Tretyakov Gallery. It has been made by the evangelist Luke according to a legend.

Prince Andrew transfers the capital. Prince Andrew becomes historically famous, when he transfers the center of the Russian state to the Northwest, with the aim of uniting Russia under the rule of the princes of Vladimir. At that time Vladimir was still a small town along the river of Klyazma, known by its tar, Andrew giving it strength as the annales say it, by building there the great church for wondermaking Mother of God, which he brought there from the South. The temple is ment to be the seat of bishop, and its high position is described by a bold height of more than 32 metres, 29 metres above the Sophia Cathedral in Kiew. In 1408 the inner walls of the temple are decorated with frescos by Andrew Rubljev, 'the master seeer of human soul and colours'. Nowhere else are there in so great extent his paintings, more that 300 square metres. The great ceiling of the church works in 1400 as model for the most important church of Russia, the Uspenski cathedral in Moscow Kreml.

Prince Andrew is Ruhtinas Andrej on devout and humble, builds many churches in his region, ignites himself the candles in the church, takes care as the senior of his church, asks that food is brought to street for sick and weak people. The city of Vladimir, full of sly merchands and craftsmen of many kind soon surpasses Rostov and Suzdfal in richness and number of population.

In 1158 the prince founds for himself a stone city by the name Bogoljubovo, exactly as far from Vladimir as Vyshgorod is from Kiew. The city has an important strategic significance for Vladimir in the junction of Nerli and Kljazma rivers. In the shelter of land walls and a stone wall a church of white stone is built for the memory of the birth of the Mother of God. The artistic taste and touch of harmony, and the professional skill and the correctness of the proportions in construction may be criticized, but Pokrova churches in Nerl are incomparable architectoral monuments of those times, luckily saved in the neighbourhood. The construction of this only church on a low artificial hill, to which is devoted a song of dedication of the Mother of God and one of the most lyric works of Russian constructors, connected with young prince Izjaslav Andrejevich succumbing in wounds in 1164.

Of the constructors the annales mention:

«In belief and diligency of turning to the saint Mother of God God brings him to the first place before all other masters».

According to the Russian historian V.N. Tatishtshev on the account of Andrew Bogoljubskiy worked the master Lanfranco - the master constructor of the German emperor Friedrich Barbarossan, having build in the Northern part of Italy, in the county of Pavia, city of Modena, a church with sculptured reliefs. The technique of white stone, the special quality of decoration, many details almost literally coincide with the white stone buildings of Vladimir and Bogolyubovo. Was it not this master arriving in 1158 to work for the prince of Vladimir?

«As a memory of himself, - writes an ancient annalist, - devoted and God fearing prince Andrew founded a church in stone opposite Bogoljubovo for Father God, dedicated it to the wonderful Birth of Saint Mother of God and decorated it more beautifully than any other church, decorated it with precious pearls, added to it many decorations and plates, all kinds of castings with figures, with such a lustre that it is soar to look at it, because it has turned to gold. And he sprinkled the containers with gold, worthily, to be admired by all, so that nobody who has seen it, cannot espress its incredible beauty with words».

The richness of the princes of Russia before the era of Mongols, the quality of the used metals, the containers and decorations of churches, monastries and palaces, parts of weapons, collections of boyars, merchants and others, draw to them admiration and questions. Where they do come from? Can we suppose that the gold and silver stock of the middle age Russia have been collected by customs duties, that the foreign merchands paid? Or by the trade with weapons and furs, this light, easily transportable and precious material. The symbols of honour of princes were collected in furs of squirrel, fox, hermelin, sobol, beaver etc. which had high demand in Bysanth, Mediterranean, Western Europe. But the most important source of the currency stock of the middle age Russia was its nature and the labour input of peasants, hunters, fishermen, craftsmen.

4. Moscow Rus

Golden Gate defeats Golden Orda. The destructive bands of the Golden Orda in february 1238 in the region of Vladimir were an ordeal: all cities of the Duchy defeated one after the other, because they had scarcely defenders - they succumbed in the neighbourhood of Kolomna, Moscow, Vladimir and in Vladimir itself. All cities entered battle. Moscow stood against a general attack for five days. As long as that stood Pereslavl-Zalesskij: The city of birth of Alexander Nevsky had a strategically important position on the main road from Middle-Volga to Tver and Novgorod. No details have been saved of the loss in 1238 February in Kostroma and Jaroslavl. But archeologs have revealed in Jaroslavl a whole layer of a great fire at that time and a very poor so called cultural layer above it. It is clear that the city founded by Jaroslav Wise in 1010 was completely destroyed and then reborn very slowly during centuries. In the local monastery, which was built shortly before the invasion of Orda, there is, saved by an incomprehensible wonder as the only manuscript of the century a genial «Слова о полку Игореве». (Words about Igoreva Regiment).

The conquery is followed by assumption of precious metals and delivery away. They are transported in gold bars, in minted money, jewel. All churches and towers are emptied, silver plates deported, spoons, cups, rings, pendants, bowls, icon frames and books.

belongs to Grand Duke Aleksander Nevskiy, the builder of Holy Russia, who secures the Western borders and by his understanding policies lightens the weight of the yuog of the Golden Orda.

The Russian historian Lev Nikolayevich Gumilev in his book «От Руси до России» (From Rus to Russia) presents his view of Aleksander Nevsky:

«The dominant behaviour formulated by Aleksander is altruistic patriotism - some centuries before us he defined the limits of the construction of Russia. The traditions of Eurasia developed by the prince are based on national and religious tolerance, they are used in Russia up to 1800's. And finally, particularly the followers of Aleksander Jaroslavich Nevski are building a New Russia on the ruins of old Kiew Rus. Originally its name is Moscow Rus, but in 1200's there is a passionate collision. 'New' people begin to be born about in 1220, and they develop to a historical power in 1300's, about 1380. So, the period of passionate rise is about 160 years long».

In the middle of the passionate rise are the cities of the Golden Ring, above all Moscow, then still a row city about even with others on the border of the Grand Duchy of Vladimir, with its small wooden fortresses on the small colline of Borovitskiy, as a part of Chinatown and merchanddise pier of Podolom. From this small piece of land far beyond the forest begins a new Russia. Around Moscow settles an etnic core, of which then grows a greatrussian nation and culture.

Lev Nikolajevich Gumilev:

«The reason of the rise of Moscow is that just in Moscow, unlike other cities and Principalities, there are many passionate people: and Tatars, and Lithuanians, and Russians, and Polovetsians - all who want to maintain trust to future, and correspondingly to social situation. All these newcomers Moscow understands to exploit, adapts to their habits, and joins them to the one orthodox religion. Tatars, members of the Golden Orda in the service of Moscow constitute the spine of Russian cavalry, which then later enables the victory on the Kulikovo field. Suzdalians, Vladimirians, Rostovians, Pskovians go to battle on Kulikovo field as representatives of their respective Principalities, but return as Russians, although living in different towns and cities. A new etnic unit - Moscow Rus - is reality in the whole world, it has historic meaning.

5. Russia after Napoleon

Golden Ring has during its history lost a great part of its monuments and reliques. Preparing to leave Moscow in autumn 1812 Napoleon commands that Kreml should be exploded to brick powder. In the night of October 11, when the French Army is already far, rain comes to the city. And in Kreml alone there are explosions six times one after another. The sanctuary is destroyed in front of the eyes of the frightened people gathered on the street. Luckily not all the explosives digged into the soil did explode. Rain extinguishes some fuses alreasy ignited. Majority of the churchs in Kreml are saved, although Moscow itself is destroyed radically. Of almost 10 thousand houses only one third remains. Of 290 churches 127 are burned, the rest robbed.

The capital of czar, city of merchants and proprietors is being rebuilt very quickly. The czar Alexander I, who loved Moscow and appreciated its merits in battle against the enemy, without delay decides to erect a church as a monument.

«And that church lasts centuries, and in it in front of the seat of holy God the incense of the gratefulness of later generations, together with love and memory of ancestors will be burnt».

October 12 in 1817 the construction of Christ Saviour church, the monument of Russian victory in the great patriotic war of 1812 is began. Great architectonic construction is effectuated with national scale sacrifices. The interior decoration is white and red marmor. Interior painting is made by genial Russian painter Vassily Surikov, creating four large tableaus with the motive of 'churches of universum'.

Knut Hamsun, famous Norvegian, on visiting four of five continents and having undertaken a trip to Russia in 1898, to the fabulous country, confessed that nothing corresponding the Moscow Kreml he had never seen, thzat Moscow was something fabulous.

«In Moscow there are some fourhundred and fifty churches and tsasounas, and when the clock begin to sound, then air vibrates out of the multitude of sound in this city with a million of inhabitants. From Kreml opens a view over the whole sea of beauty. I have never been able to imagine that there can be such city on the Earth: everything around shines with red golden cupolas and tops. In fron of this amount of gold combined with clear blue colour everythin I have ever dreamed gets blanched».

After the October revolution in 1917 the collection of means for Russian arms and to the monument of all Russian power of spirit was interrupted. The great all state temple itself started to decay. At the end of 1931 tatars of other times exploded the temple of Christ Savior - on this place there was according to Stalin's general plan would be erected the palace of Soviets and on top of it a giant size statue of Lenin. The plan did not become reality, but Moscow suffered giant size architectonic losses. The originator of the planned vandalistic actions was almighty director of Moscow city Lazar Kaganovich. The destruction was vehemently opposed by the restaurator of Russian history and monuments of culture Pyotr Dmitrievich Baranovskiy. Discussion with Kaganovich with big letters did not bring result. Then Pyotr Dimitrievich sent a sharp telegram to Stalin. As a result Holy Vassily temple could be saved, but the stubborn restzurator was arrested. Maria Juryevna, spouse of Baranovskiy, has told:

«Pyotr Dimitrievich is able only to ask me when we saw before he was sent to Gulag: "Did they destroy?" I weepingly nod: "Whole!"

Christ Savior temple, of which it was a plan to construct, in addition to Kreml, the architectoral center of the capital, was officially forgotten. At the beginning of 1960's a bath bassein was planned in the enormous hole. In 1994 the bassein was eliminated and preparations to rebuild the temple begun. The reconstruction of the monument was completed to the 850 year jubileum of the foundation of Moscow in 1998.

A student of Baranovsky, an altruistic saver of culture of Russia Vladimir Alexandrovich Desyatnikov in his own professional activity as art director has since 1963 spent time to save the famous Rostov sound. At that time he worked as a senior controller of art in the Ministry of Culture, so he had the possibility to acquaint widely with the Russian cultural heritage.

Sound of church clocks is a distinct chapter in Russian culture. From deep past Baranovskiy has trvelled in the life of people, challenced into basttle, firealarmed, provoked moderately and festively people to the ultimate road. To whom of the Russian composerts the richness of the sound of church clocks would not have belonged – Glinka, Musorgskij, Tshaikovskij. With their clock sound have boasted Novgorod, Pskov, Suzdal, but such a well tuned orchester as is in the Uspenskiy Cathedral of Rostov Velikiy, is nowhere else. The playmasters have transferred to following generations the old skill of playing the clocks. Every such craftsman has had musical ear, he has been a gifted improviser. Of this an eager testimony have given V.V. Stasov, Shaljapin, Gorkij and Hector Berlioz have come particularly to Rostov to listen the clockwork play. Beethoven wrote his Appassionata composition on the basis of Rostov clockwork played by Egorev. The notation was sent to the great composer by his admirer, the ambassador of Austria in Russia.

When Vladimir Desjatnikov presents his plan to record Rostov clockwork to the director of the Federal recording studio Melody, he outright announces:

«I cannot give to your highness the consent of the party».

A coincidence helps. In the cinestudio of M Gorki clock sound material was needed for a historical movie. Recording was done, but who publishes the record? The secretary of the party committee of the Ministry of Culture of Soviet Union summons Desyatnikov and proposes 'paternally':

«I have been told that you order 'Rostov clockwork' to the recording studio. But is not it sacral music…».

Everything stops: opium to people. Again coincidence helps. Word to Vladimir Alexandrovich Desjatkov:

«To Moscow came the American impressario n:o 1 Solomon Urok. E.A. Furtseva was occupied and did not hurry to receive the impressario. Solomon is sitting in the waiting room and boring. I ask the assistant of the ministry to 'entertain' the ex-Russian and put the 'Rostov clockwork' on. It is interesting, how he reacts to this. One minute, another… The door is opened, enters E.A. Furtseva and astonishingly turns to Urok: "What is the matter?" Solomon is weeping. On listening the recording to the end, he asks Furtseva to give him the licence for the record 'Rostov clockwork'. And all is clear. Printing of the record is started with us provided with comments in Russian and other languages».

In addition to acceptable work man must unconditionally take part some big social activity. In the case of Desyatnikov such a matter was saving and propagating of cultural heritage of Russian nation. Together wit Baranovski in October 1964 they proposed that a federal society for saving historic and cultural monuments be founded. Expressly to this society belongs the idea of dfounding the Golden Ring. On acquainting with the documents of Russian Federation, Vladimir-Suzdal, Rostov-Yaroslavl, Zajurek and Kostroma administration they suggested these to be included to the monuments of history and architecture. The restauration processis slow and gradual, but it has begun soon after the Great Patriotic War.

At the end of 1960's occurs the so called museum explosion – a steep increase of visitors in museums everywhere in the world. In three years in 1966-1969 the number of visitors in the museums of the Golden Ring becomes triple. The number of foreign turists increases every year: acquainting with beauty gives taste as water taken with bark scoop in a hot July day.

It has begun to be reality, what academician Igor Grasbar forecasted in 1928:

«Conserv your monuments, people of Vladimir, Suzdal, Novgorod, Pskov. Conserve, because, when peple come to you like they go to-day to Italy, and this time is not beyond the mountains, they are the source of your happiness, fill your hearts with proudness».

Jaroslavl 1000 years. This proudness exists today in preparations to the jubileum of Jaroslavl 1000 years, celebration of the famous Golden Ring events. In July 2005 the historic center of the city was joined to the list of monuments of UNESCO.

«This celebration we have from the very beginning considered nationally significant, said the president of Russia D.A. Medvedev at the meeting of the State soviet meeting in October 2008. - During centuries Jaroslavl has been a fortress of the Russian state establishment, significant economically, culturally, a political center of our country, having played a very important part in the shaping of the state of Russia».

D.A. Medvedev visited Jaroslavl in 20080803, examined the Cathedral of Uspenski and walked on the shore boulevard, where a magnificent view to the confluence of Volga and Kotorosl rivers. People of Jaroslavl asked with interest:

«Are you pleased with our city?».
«Absolutely», answers the president lifting his thumb.
«Pleasant to see you on our shore boulevard, the most beautiful in the whole world», - says an inhabitant of Jaroslavl.

Millions of people visit Golden Ring. Natalya Kapustina, student of journalism from Elitsa, participating recently an excursion 'Golden Ring in memory' announced proudly:

«Many kilometres long is this achievement of Vladimir and Suzdal museum director - a wonderful and unique product of a modern thinking of the idea and enthusiasm of modern museism. Clockwork sound that we heard in Spaso-Evfimiev monastery could not leave indifferent. Many of us took dictaphones and tried to record this deep sound. The last we saw Suzdal kreml and the mark of V.V. Putinin on the wall: 'Unique museum, unique people. Thanks!" Excellent that also Putin when travelling all over in Mother Russia opens something new for himself. Pays attention to the oldest part of the mighty Russia. - it is valuable!».

Stone agitators. Another well-known leader of Russia V.I. Lenin on his visit in 1918 in Uspenski Cathedral mentioned old cultural monuments as stone agitators.

and added: ’What significant is there on the walls? The life of people. Work, struggle, sacrifices, bravery. What has been achieved? Russian peasants. In rags, slippers, in wet rags with blue, freezing foots. Our people deserves a better part! We must dig it from emptiness and incomprehendible poorness. Difficult? Yes. But I believe in the great future of our nation’.

September 2008